The murals and frescoes of Ajanta was "never meant to be seen", says Jonah Blank, a traveler and the auther of book I am reading - "Arrow of the blue skinned God." Speaking of Ellora, he says - "The caves I like most are ones that require the most work. there are five hermitages at Ellora that can be reached only by a crumbling path two feet wide, a track chiseled out of the mountain face, which drops thirty yards to bare rock pits below. The path looks more difficult that it actually is, so the family picnickers stay away. There the spirits of long-dead sadhus seem almost alive."
I understand and share the sentiments of the author. It's like going to watch a Satyajit Ray movie, and to find some front benchers whistling and howling and murdering the movie, and harassing the movie-goers. And you wonder - what on earth are they doing here? Do they even belong to this place? Those who run the world might have their reasons, but I feel that they are selling it cheap, in Rs 7.
Ajanta, however, is more accessible, and more vulnerable. Quoting the author again, "The path is wide and paved, so overdressed Bombay grande dames can ride up in wooden sedan-chairs, each hefted by four stoic bearers. At the cave mouth a servant holds an enormous mirror of polished tin, directing the sun's rays in to illuminate the chamber and slowly burn the frescoes into oblivion."
I didn't see mirror, but I did see numerous shutter-bugs throwing flashes, despite admonitions from guards, effecting the same effect to the precious paintings.
Those who created are dead. Those who protect are hardly ever seen, and those who destroy are omnipresent. They litter without guilt or shame, and leave their poly-traces to the corners that were "never meant to be seen". Hidden from the world for more than a thousand years, these caves lied unsullied in the custody of forest. But an accidental discovery changed everything. Hordes of monkeys ravage their steps and hoot in their halls.
What is left in Ajanta and Ellora is just a memory of a world that was out-of-the-world. With passage of eons, the colors have faded, and the shapes have dulled, and all we have is nothing but ruins. But here lies the magic - even the ruins are awesome! A look at Kailashnath Temple is enough to convince a sceptic.
But this marvel often dazzles and misleads. Being the gateway to Ellora, it gives the impression of the first cave, which it is not. Unless you are careful, or informed, you are likely to miss the Buddhist caves altogether. The arrangement for the tourists is abysmal. You are on your own.
